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Gezi Park – After the Storm »« Miniaturk – Touring Turkey the Lazy Way

The Gezi Park Protests in Istanbul

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I was at my desk in Cihangir, trying to write about the Yeni Camii, while outside the dueling sounds of chanting and tear gas cannons were clamoring for my attention. When, just outside your window, tens of thousands of people are clashing with police in a protest that was making headlines around the world, it’s a little hard to concentrate on anything else.

The drama started on May 28th, 2013, in Taksim Square’s Gezi Park. A small group of concerned citizens had occupied it, in protest of a new shopping mall which would destroy one of Istanbul’s few remaining green areas. Using tear gas and water cannons, police in riot gear violently dispersed the protest, which by all accounts had been peaceful.

This excessive use of force in Gezi Park ignited the always-flammable powder keg of Istanbul’s popular rage. By Friday night, the number of protesters had grown into the tens of thousands. The government’s response? More cops and more tear gas.

All this over a new shopping mall? Not entirely. Popular frustration about increasingly aggressive police tactics had been building for awhile. On May 1st, the yearly Labor Day march, was suppressed with tear gas and water cannons. And I myself tasted the acid sting of tear gas three times, just because we live near Taksim. But you know what I never saw? Any sort of protest that could possibly justify tear gas. The police were deploying this weapon indiscriminately, and people eventually got fed up.

Weeks before Gezi Park erupted, we passed a small gathering of protesters in Taksim Square. I don’t know what their cause was, but it must have been over pensions or something, because these were elderly people. They had a couple signs, and there were no more than thirty of them. But the police force which had been deployed was ridiculous. There were at least four times as many cops as protesters, all of them outfitted with weaponry and riot gear. It was a presence designed not for peace-keeping, but intimidation.

So, there was a lot of anger in Istanbul and the flames were only being stoked by the dismissive attitude of the government. Prime Minister Erdoğan gave a speech in which he boasted that he “didn’t care” what the Gezi Park protesters thought. The shopping mall would be built as planned. He called any opposition to his plans “illegitimate” and labeled the protesters as “extremists“. State media in Turkey ignored the protests, or covered them in a very superficial manner.

For years, Erdoğan’s Islamic AKP party had been introducing ever more conservative laws, and this had liberal Istanbul on edge. The country had recently been in the news for banning red lipstick on flight attendants. There was a strange fight in Ankara over public displays of affection. And a law banning sales of alcohol between 10pm and 6am, and outlawing any advertising of alcohol, had just gone into effect.

One fear we heard over and over from Turkish friends, is that their city might lose its identity. That the conservative, Islamic values of the majority will be forced upon the city’s secular minority. It’s not inconceivable. But if the Gezi Park protests are any indication, Istanbul will never be afraid to fight for its beliefs.

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June 1, 2013 at 2:15 pm
8 comments »
  • June 2, 2013 at 12:56 amCanay Ozden

    “Turkey turning to Iran” is one of those not-good-for-anything tropes. It just doesn’t stop sending chills down my spine every time I hear it – because it’s not doing justice to either Turkey’s complex situation or Iran (yet another country that has to suffer being the butt of all jokes and overly simplified analysis constantly). Tropes are for people who want easy answers. Yes, Turkey has a long history of secularism vs political Islam. But it also has a long history of class organization (if you asked anyone what the main fault line in Turkey was prior to 1980 – your clearcut answer would be left/socialism/communism versus right/nationalism). Turkey also has a loooongstanding ethnic strife. The fight that’s being fought in Gezi Parki today started as not against Erdogan’s conservatism but his blood-sucking neoliberalism that’s turned Istanbul to a construction site. So: a lot going on here. What is being fought over right now in Istanbul and several cities is a question of authoritarianism. Everything else is derivative today.Turkey turning to Iran… I sadly hear this most often when I’m in Turkey – but hey, being sort of in the Middle East absolutely doesn’t disqualify someone from saying orientalist things, does it? I guess, just like in the 1970s when it was accepted that you were either a communist or a fascist, now there’s a general expectation from everyone of falling neatly either in the secular/Kemalist or the political Islamist crowd. And the Samuel Huntington’s of this world are definitely doing their fair share to promote binarisms. It’d be so unfair to conjure up this trite trope in the face of the richness of what’s going on in Istanbul today.Being in Istanbul today is what I’d wish most. And I admire you guys for being there and being part of the revolution.

  • June 2, 2013 at 11:52 amDiane

    So sad. Istanbul is one of my favorite cities. Stay safe, you guys!!

  • June 2, 2013 at 9:41 pmCat of Sunshine and Siestas

    Thanks for sharing this. I’ve heard that there is a media blackout, but in moments like these, I’m thankful for blogs and people brave enough to write about it. Stay safe!

  • June 3, 2013 at 1:37 amMagdalena

    Thank You for this post and support for Turkish people.Beautiful site. Great. Thank You for sharing all this. (btw:Kitty’s story moved us very much – thank You.) Amazing photos. Istanbul my love. Buenos too. You are lucky guys. Take care of Yourself. I’ll be back here regularly. 

  • June 4, 2013 at 5:22 amNidhi

    Is Turkey ( Istanbul,Cappadocia and Antalya ) safe for tourist. I am travelling here at this weekend with my family for our viccation. So please guide me what should Ido? We are waiting to come and explore Turkey.

  • June 5, 2013 at 4:48 amNidhi

    Is it a safe time to travel istanbul

    • June 5, 2013 at 6:51 amMike Powell

      It’s a turbulent time to be sure, and we’re not really qualified to give advice on the safety of the current situation. You might want to check with your own country’s consulate or embassy.


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The Gezi Park Protests in Istanbul I was at my desk in Cihangir, trying to write about the Yeni Camii, while outside the dueling sounds of chanting and tear gas cannons were clamoring for my attention. When, just outside your window, tens of thousands of people are clashing with police in a protest that was making headlines around the world, it's a little hard to concentrate on anything else.
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