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Our First Hamam: The Kılıç Ali Paşa »« The Land Walls – Day Two

The Historic Arcades of İstiklal Caddesi

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I’m beginning to think that we could have dedicated 91 days to just Istanbul’s Beyoğlu district. In fact, a blog devoted entirely to the city’s main shopping street isn’t inconceivable. İstiklal Caddesi For 91 Days. The number of bars, restaurants, shops, theaters and galleries along “Independence Street” is overwhelming. We spent an entire day exploring just its historic arcades. What follows are short descriptions of our favorites, with links to their exact locations.

Flower-Flower-Passage

The most famous of İstiklal’s arcades is the Çiçek Pasajı, or the Flower Passage. This is one of the prettiest locations in Beyoğlu, and among the most popular with tourists. As such, its prior function as a home for florists has long since vanished, and the passage is now monopolized by expensive restaurants. [Location | More Pics]

Atlas-Pasaji-Bar

The Atlas Pasajı dates from 1871 and centers around a cinema of the same name, where we attended a screening during the Istanbul Film Festival. Apart from the excellent theater, the arcade is a good place to shop for affordable alternative clothing. [Location | More Pics]

Avrupra-Passage.

The Avrupa Pasajı (Europe Passage) is ornamented by classical statues and topped with a round roof that allows in plenty of light. Most of the stores here today focus on jewelry and upscale souvenirs. This arcade runs parallel to İstiklal Caddesi and is a little difficult to pinpoint without assistance. [Location | More Pics]

Hazzopulo-Best-Tea-Istanbul

Perhaps our favorite spot of the day was in the courtyard found at the back of the narrow Hazzopulo Pasajı, which was packed with students drinking tea and playing backgammon. As soon as we emerged into this very cool corner of the city, we felt ourselves leveling up. Drinking tea in Hazzopulo advances you from Istanbul Level 3 (beginner) to Level 4 (novice). [Location | More Pics]

Aslihan-Books

The hardest arcade to find was the Aslıhan Pasajı, but it was worth the effort. This long, narrow, multi-floor passage is dedicated entirely to second-hand books and comics. I enjoy comics, and especially browsing through stacks of old, used copies. I’ve noticed that, in Istanbul, the most popular comic by far is Conan the Barbarian. Do Turks have a thing for Conan? [Location | More Pics]

Suriye-Vintage-Cloth

Found at the southern end of İstiklal Caddesi, the Cité de Syrie was built in 1908. Hidden within this arcade’s basement is an incredible second-hand clothing and costume store called By Retro. Otherwise, besides a single sofa sitting alone in the hallway, this beautiful arcade is almost entirely empty. [Location | More Pics]

Other arcades we visited on İstiklal Caddesi were more forgettable, but still fun to hunt down. Rumeli has a great cafe called Mona Lisa, decorated with posters of old film stars. Aleppo is home to another cool theater, and Aznavur feels very dated and has shops selling handmade trinkets. Pasaj Markiz was our least favorite of the day; behind a lovely facade, it’s occupied entirely by a Sears-like department store called “Darty”.

-High Res Travel Photos From Istanbul

More pictures from the Çiçek Pasajı and 1 video

Cicek-Pasaji
Flower-Fancy-Restaurant
Flower-Green-Dome
Flower-Passage
Flower-Pasaji
Flower-Window

More pictures from the Atlas Passage

Atlas-Pasaji
Atlas-Box-Office
Atlas-Shopping
Atlas-Overdose
Atlas-Dogo-Store
Atlas-Cupon
Atlas-Tram-Art

More pictures from the Avrupa Pasajı

Avrupa-Pasaji
Avrupra-Carpets
Avrupra-In-Istanbul
Avrupra-No-Happy-Day
Avrupa-Ceremic-Balls

More pictures from the Hazzopulo Pasajı

Hazzopulo-Passage-Entrance
Hazzopulo-Shopping
Hazzopulo-Tea-Boys
Hazzopulo-Turkish-Ball
Hazzopulo-Turkish-Dandy-Boys
Hazzopulo-Passage
Hazzopulo-Door

More pictures from the Aslıhan Pasajı

Aslihan-Lady-Passage
Aslihan-Sexy
Aslihan-Sexy-Underwear
Aslihan-Sexy-Village-People-Cruisin
Aslihan-Comics
Aslihan-Retro-Tapes
Aslihan-Used-Records

More pictures from the Cité de Syrie

Suriye-Pasaji
Suriye-Model
Suriye-Passage
Suriye-Doggy-Hang-Out
Suriye-High-Fashion.
Suriye-Vintage-Heads
Pictures from the Rumeli Passage
Rumeli
Rumeli-Store-Front
Rumeli-TKP
Rumeli-Cafe-Mona-Lisa
Rumeli-Mona-Lisa-Bling
Pictures from the Aznavur Passage
Aznavur-Passage
Aznavur-Lady
Aznavur-Waiting-For-Costumer

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May 6, 2013 at 3:10 pm
2 comments »
  • August 21, 2014 at 8:14 pmOzlem Ozkurt

    Hi Mike,I loved your web page, I must say you took me back to Beyoglu, with these beautiful pictures. As a person who has recently moved to Toronto from Istanbul, there are many things I miss about my city. Beyoglu in Istanbul is such a unique place and is with full of surprises. The streets are so lively you cannot help but be energized by the area. Nightlife is also very colorful in Beyoglu and continues until morning. You can find traditional Turkish cuisine in many restaurants located in Beyoglu.


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